Initially designs are drawn on a plastic sheet or tracing sheet. Plastic sheets are mainly used for tracing because it is durable for long time. Using piercing tool small holes are made on the outlines of the drawn design. The fabric to be embroidered is stretched from the four sides for stiffness and tied to a metal frame. Stencils of costume design are placed on the fabric and the outline of the measurement is marked by stitching the border lines with needle and thread at the required areas to be embroidered.
Designed plastic sheet is placed on the fabric to trace the design. Thin paste of zinc oxide powder and kerosene is prepared through which the design is traced. The paste is rubbed on plastic sheet. The zinc oxide paste when rubbed on the designed plastic sheet passes through the pores made and the design is traced on the fabric. Artisan starts to do embroidery work on the traced design with colorful embroidery threads. The thread is held with a finger at the reverse of the fabric and the ari, an awl-like needle with a sharp point shaped like hook, is held on the top. The ari is pierced through the cloth and the thread is brought to the upper side and locked with the previous stitch. This process is repeated until the desired from is created on the surface of the fabric.
After embroidering few areas the stiches are hammered. A wooden piece is kept beneath the fabric for support and on the top the embroidered design is hammered with a wooden mallet to strengthen the stiches. The designs are also embroidered with beads, golden and silver threads to make the design look more elegant. Sparkling and colorful stones are also glued on the fabric using fabric adhesive, giving the wear a royal look. After completion of the embroidery work, the fabric is removed from the frame, is reversed to other side and tied again. Fabric glue is applied on the threads behind embroidered design, so that the threads don’t come out. The fabric is cut and stitched to complete the wear then packed for sale.
Hand embroidered costumes are made in less number as it requires more time and labor. The embroidery is mostly done on bridal and traditional wears.