Design Resource
Zardosi Work - Yadgiri, Karnataka
Elaborate Metallic Embroidery
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baraland Srikanth B.
Introduction
Embroidery is an art of decorating fabrics with fine thread works, unique from other styles. Apart from threads and needles, the craft also fixes materials like pearls, beads, quills, and sequins, etc. Historically, the embroidery threads were made out of silk, gold, or silver, sewing elaborate hand-stitched clothing, boots, and hats. The origin of embroidery is recorded to the start of 30,000 BC, where the Orient and Middle Eastern parts of the world were involved in heavily mend thread works. While in China, the history of embroidery dates back to 3500 B.C where pictures depict embroidery of silk thread, precious stones, and pearls. Later in the 1100s, the religious artifacts adopted this style for incorporating small seed pearls on to vellum, followed by beadworks clothing in the coming decades. It was thus considered a symbol to evaluate one’s economic status with the range of embroidery work done on their clothing, religious objects, and other household items. This was very prevalent in the cultures of ancient Persia, India, China, Japan, Byzantium, and medieval Europe.
Globally, the raw materials used for embroidery work differs from place to place and the same is the case with India internally, dozens of regional embroidery styles vary by its region of origin, like Aari from Barabanki region of Uttar Pradesh, Banjara from North India, Banni from Gujarat, Karchobi of Rajasthan, Shamilami from Manipur, Kasuti of Karnataka, Rabari of Kutch region, Zardosi prevalent in Lucknow, etc. to name a few forms. The word 'Zardosi', a form of metal embroidery, is derived from Persian terms, ‘Zar’ meaning gold and ‘Dosi’ meaning embroidery. Owing to the use of precious metal threads, it was highly regarded in royal houses while designing attires for the royal families, especially the Kings of Persia. Later though this embroidered clothing paved its way into India through trade, here the art was more used to decorate walls of the royal tents, scabbards, carpets, wall hangings, and head plates for regal elephants. The Zardosi, all through its cultural importance in the 17th century, enjoyed heavy patronage from Emperor Akbar’s court, but unfortunately under the rule of Aurangazeb, the financial aid was withdrawn, leading to its decline. This ignorance towards the craft forced many artisans, move to Punjab, Rajasthan, and Delhi, and rebuilding a new version of Zardosi with cheap and easily available cotton and polyester. Industrialization of the 18th century also fell heavy on its further growth, later it was in the year 1947 that the Indian government undertook steps to revive certain Indian art forms including Zardosi embroidery. Now many regions in India actively practice the art like Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer, Chennai, and Varanasi.
In Zardosi work, the difference between a handmade and machine-made Zardosi work can be easily identified, as the machine work gives a delicate design unlike hand stitches, which comes evident in its flip side stitch. Today Zardosi products available in the market range from various forms of garments, accessories like purses, belts, shoes, hairbands to even home furnishings. Tirumala Garments Training Centre from Yadgiri district of Karnataka, India serves the purpose of manufacturing fabrics with Zardosi Embroidery works. They offer training programs and workshops for local people from the area, providing them an opportunity to master the art and sell up their works even on international platforms. Yadgiri, also known as "Yadavagiri" is well regarded for its rich historical and cultural traditions.
